A Portuguese White Blend

A white wine from southern Portugal...

Arinto Grapes

In some ways today’s column is unique. For the first time there is a serious problem with the marketing materials. As quoted below, the wine is said to be a blend of Chardonnay and Arinto. But the label talks about three Portuguese grapes, Arinto, Antao Vaz, and Roupeiro. So maybe you should neglect the marketing materials as I have a sneaking suspicion that they belong to a similar, but different, wine. Arinto is often found in Vino Verde, but it wasn’t present in the one I reviewed almost exactly one year ago.

In any case this wine was produced in the region of Alentejo in southern Portugal. This region has very hot and dry summers, and an enviable 3000 hours of sunlight per year. One might think that so much sun is just too much for the grapes. On the plus side, the soil has low fertility. And the nights may be relatively cool. The winemaker, Herdade da Malhada, also possesses extensive olive groves. Today’s companion wine comes from the Galicia region of southwestern Spain, almost at the Portuguese border.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed
Casa de Santa Vitória Versátil Branco 2008 13.0 % alcohol about $10

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Tasting Note : This unique wine is a blend of Chardonnay and Arinto (an indigenous Portuguese grape known for its zippy acidity and citrus notes). Aromas of green pear, lemon and honeydew melon jump from the glass, then spring to life again as flavors on the palate. The balance of Chardonnay's creamy roundness with Arinto's acidic tang is intriguing. A delicious partner for simply fried fish or seafood. (VINTAGES panel, March 2009). And now for my review.

At the first sips I tasted lemon and found the wine excessively acidic. The initial meal centered on a honey, garlic barbecued chicken breast. Its lemon, lime acidity was more pleasant but the wine was still unbalanced. Surprisingly the acidity problem increased with the accompanying potatoes roasted in chicken fat. This Arinto (and ?) worked out best with the side of canned palm hearts. An organic blackberry sherbet bar muted the wine and reduced its acidity as well.

My next meal was a home made meatless lasagna with mozzarella and cottage cheese that I liberally dusted with grated parmesan cheese. The wine was lemony and pleasant but there wasn’t anything else to say about it. With sweet hazelnut cream cookies the Arinto was barely present.

My final meal was an omelet brimming with chilies also containing parsley, California black olives (not in the same league as the Greeks), sage, and mozzarella cheese. The wine was refreshing with light lemons and balanced acidity. In the presence of green salad it was oily (the wine) and tasted of white grapefruit. Dessert was a delicious frozen wild blueberry custard in a buttery crust. In response wine presented light acidity and barely meshed.

The first cheese was a farmer’s. The Arinto was acidic and slightly metallic with little fruit. In the presence of a fairly sharp yellow cheddar, the wine was round with a touch of sweetness and fairly pleasant.

Final verdict. How do you say José in Portuguese? I put this wine in the no way, José category. But I did learn something. I have to check the marketing materials against the label in the future.

Access the companion wine A Galicia, Spain Albariño (Under $15)

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com    and    http://www.wineinyourdiet.com

Visit his website devoted to italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com

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