An Abruzzi, Italy Chardonnay

Chardonnay from central Italy...

Beautiful Chieti Abruzzzi

I haven’t been able to get a lot of information about Cantine Spinelli, the producer of today’s wine because their website is in Italian only. Frankly, I’d rather be tasting wine than painfully translating from Italian, a language that I don’t know. This family-run business has been in operation for some thirty years in Abruzzi, a hopefully up and coming (as has been promised for years if not decades) region of east-central Italy on the Adriatic coast. In theory this region has it all, rolling foothills that descend to the sea, a great mix of mountain and sea air, and a relatively dry climate. Actually today’s wine comes from the Chieti zone of southern Abruzzi, not as great for wine production as northern Abruzzi. But the good news is that the wine is a Chardonnay rather than the more common Trebbiano, which is rarely associated with fine wine. Today’s wine carries the usually non-prestigious IGT designation, which suggests that it typifies its surroundings. The companion wine is a pricey Napa Valley, California Chardonnay that has received rave reviews.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed
Spinelli Chardonnay Terre di Chieti IGT 2008 11.5% alcohol about $7

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Tasting Note : Light lemon color; dry and light bodied with peach pear fruit and very crisp acidity. Serving Suggestion : Antipasto, shellfish, light seafood. And now for my review.

At the first sips the wine was dominated by somewhat harsh acidity and tasted of green (unripe) apples. The first meal was a honey and garlic barbecued chicken breast. The Chardonnay became rounder and now its acidity was not unpleasant. When it accompanied potatoes roasted in chicken fat, the wine was shorter as it washed down the delicious fat. The other side dish was Moroccan style carrots with cumin and sliced green olives. Unfortunately the wine virtually lost its flavor. With dessert, fresh pineapple slices, the Chardonnay bounced back with strong, refreshing acidity.

The next meal was a broiled Atlantic salmon filet marinated in a nectar made from the juice of the Agave (cactus) plant. The wine was slightly sweet and lemony. Broiled brown mushroom caps increased its acidity. But in the face of okra in tomato sauce with coriander the wine was fairly weak.

My final meal started with puff pastry and spinach appetizers. This Chardonnay presented bright acidity and lemons. The main dish was a broiled shoulder veal chop covered in thyme. The wine was moderately acidic and did not have much fruit. The accompanying tomato, onion, green pepper, artichoke, and jalapeno, lime salsa heightened the wine’s acidity and its fruit. Fruit juice candy muted the wine’s fruit.

Before tasting the two cheeses, I started with schmaltz herring in oil which gave the wine nice, appley acidity. My first cheese was a marbled cheddar. Now the apples were fairly green. With a more interesting Swiss cheese the wine basically lost its flavor.

Final verdict. I would not buy this wine again; the food pairings were simply too hit and miss. But another strategy is available, given its low, low price. You might try it with many dishes and serve it with the combinations you like. And I would definitely recommend this wine when serving schmalz herring (in oil) and fresh pineapple.

Access the companion wine An Upscale Napa Valley Chardonnay

About the Author

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com    and    http://www.wineinyourdiet.com

Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com

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