The label has changed.
As the holiday season approaches it’s time to reflect on many issues, including our prejudices. I admit it; I am an unabashed fan of German Rieslings, especially the sweet ones. Sometimes. I am not so prejudiced that I love or even like all of them. Today’s offering comes from a 2600-member wine grower’s association in the Mosel region of central western Germany, said by many to be the best place to grow Rieslings in the world. The Romans and Celts grew wine grapes in this area 2000 years ago. The reds now account for about 6% of the local production. When you are lucky enough to be in this area be sure to visit the twin cities of Bernkasteler on the east bank and Kues on the west bank of the Mosel River. You’ll enjoy the historic market square, lovely half-timbered houses, and a castle. Early September means a great wine festival. The companion wine is a fancier Rheingau Riesling at somewhat under twice the price.
Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. “Tasting Note : Pale straw yellow colour; citrus, mineral and dried apricot aromas and flavours; balanced with crisp acidity in the finish. Serving Suggestion : Served chilled with pork, turkey or appetizers. Spicy asian dishes.” And now for my review.
At the first sips this wine was pleasantly sweet with good acidity. The initial meal centered on home made chicken breast nuggets dusted with garlic powder and black pepper. The Riesling’s sweetness lightened as its acidity stepped up. The Matbucha salad consisting of tomatoes, tomato puree, sweet pimentos, hot peppers, garlic and more added lemons and some smoke to the libation. Dousing the meat with Jalapeno pepper mix imparted an aspect of candy to our German friend. Fresh raspberries rendered the wine thin but I did note fine acidity and pleasant sweetness in my glass.
My next meal began with Japanese rice crackers featuring Wasabi and Edame to which the libation responded with bracing acidity. Then came a packaged Baked Ziti Siciliano that I liberally doused with grated Parmesan cheese. In response the liquid was light but its sweetness emerged a bit more than acceptable, tamed by refreshing acidity. Fresh permissions muted the wine somewhat. A granola bar brimming with dried fruit and seeds took away Whitey’s sweetness and most of its fruit.
The final meal consisted of an omelet perked up with black pepper, cayenne pepper, sliced garlic, and cumin. Now the wine was somewhat flowery with its sugar slightly out of balance. The side dish of zesty guacamole returned enough acidity to control the libation’s sweetness. Ben and Jerry’s If I Had A 1,000, 000 Flavors Ice Cream had the expected effect of flattening the wine.
Final verdict. Perhaps because I like so many German Rieslings so well I won’t buy this one ever again. If you aren’t familiar with this kind of wine and don’t mind some sweetness in your glass I definitely recommend that you give it a try.Access the companion wine A Rheingau Kabinett Riesling.
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would
rather just drink fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario
French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com and http://www.wineinyourdiet.com
Visit his website devoted to italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com
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