Have you ever made a link between Central Italy and Pinot Noir? This difficult grape is grown in many lands including Bordeaux, France and the state of Oregon, but Italy? Absolutely, where it is often called Pinot Nero. Today’s example is Kosher. While the grapes come from the pedestrian but up and coming region of Apulia, the winery is located in the classy Piedmont region of northern Italy, home to many great Italian wines. To be precise it was bottled in the village of Diano d’Alba about 50 kilometers (30 miles) southeast of Turin. The nearby village of Grinzane Cavour is home to a Thirteenth or Fourteenth Century massive castle and a literary award, no longer extant perhaps because the organization’s president was accused of embezzlement. Was the money used to buy better wines? The companion wine is a French (but not Bordeaux) Pinot Noir at two thirds the price.
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.
Borgo Reale Selection Pinot Nero IGT Kosher 2011 12.5 % alcohol about $15.
There were no marketing materials so let’s start by quoting the back label. “The Apulian vocated clayey soils and sea breezes make Pinot Noir one of the most intriguing wine among the wide range of the Borgo Reale selection. The colour is an intense red, but it is on the nose that the uniqueness of this wine comes out. You can feel sweet notes of berries and cassis, yet a warm sensation. The palate is elegant, harmonious and well structured. Essential for special occasions and to be enjoyed on its own.” And now for my review.
At the first sips this wine was subtle but excessively sweet and insufficiently acidic. When it encountered a commercial Shepherd’s pie this drink gained in length but was thin and the tannins were virtually absent. Japanese rice crackers made almost no change to my glass’s contents except that the sugar problem worsened. Then I doused the dish with a generous amount of Chinese chili sauce. In response Red lengthened and its acidity perked up. But it was still too sweet.
My next meal featured Pinot Noir’s good buddy, a baked salmon filet that had been marinated in soy sauce, sesame seeds, black pepper, and a few red chilies. PN displayed good acidity and some earth. It was long but thin. When paired with a medley of roasted peppers over quinoa the liquid was metallic but flat. Dessert was a homemade Moroccan-style almond and semolina cake that I half quenched with our Italian friend. The cake was delicious but all I got from the juice was a tinge of black cherries.
The final meal started with Mejadera, a Middle-Eastern vegetarian combo of brown rice and black lentils. The libation presented good length, and balanced acidity and tannins but it was rather thin. When paired with the main dish of chili this wine hit the spot. It had good oak and some metal. The drink was refreshing, mouth filling, and long. Dessert was a slice of fruit juice candy. In response sulphur dominated everything.
Final verdict. I don’t plan on buying this wine again. I might make an exception for a chili dinner and no dessert.Access the companion wine A Wine Lover's Weekly Review Of $10 Wines - A Languedoc (France) Pinot Noir
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would
rather just drink fine French or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario
French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com and http://www.theitalianwineconnection.com
Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com
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