It’s been about two years since I reviewed this sweet southwestern French golden white from near the Spanish border. It comes from the French winemaker Louis Blanc who remains as incognito today as he was then. The bottle carries the plebian Vin de Pays appellation dating back to 1968; the specific appellation is Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne. It is not really all that specific because it includes reds, rosés, and whites, many from relatively unknown grapes. Gascony is in southwest France, not far from the Spanish border. The Gros Manseng is allegedly less elegant than its smaller cousin, Petit Manseng. I am somewhat familiar with these two grapes. During my wine courses I tasted a few hundred wines, only one of which made me jump up and down. It was a sweet white made from the Petit and Gros Manseng grapes, albeit from a part of France near the Swiss border. In a real change of pace we decided on a red Georgian as our companion wine. After all, they are both sweet. And the two winemakers share the absence of a web site.
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Domaine de Roustits Moelleux Gros Manseng (No Vintage) 12 % alcohol about $20.
There were no marketing materials so let’s start with my sight translation of the back label. “Syrupy white wine, goes well with the most delicate dishes. Great with foie gras. Drink chilled. “ And now for my review.
At the first sips this drink was very long with great balance and acidity. It had a burnt taste. Spinach and cheese in puff pastry appetizers had the effect of intensifying everything. The main dish was an omelet spiced up with a combination of basil leaves, cilantro flakes, cumin seeds, coriander seeds, and chicken powder. In response some of the libation’s acidity was replaced by roundness. A fresh pear for dessert accented the acidity and the honey in my glass.
The second meal kicked off with Japanese rice crackers and Wasabi peas. In response the potion offered a good balance of acidity and honey. When our Gascony friend met the main dish, slow-cooked chicken, it lengthened and its acidity sharpened. I noted some lime as well as honey. In response to the barley cooked alongside the chicken, this liquid offereded grease-cutting acidity. It was elegant. The vegetable, green beans cooked in coconut oil, gave Goldie more of the same; Goldie was mouthfilling. Fresh blackberries rendered the liquid fairly short but intense.
The third meal centered on a roasted salmon filet. In reponse the libation was weak, or perhaps subtle and evanescent. Frankly it was not quite up to the fish. When paired with steamed broccoli its acidity was almost sour but delicious. For dessert I had some Haagen Dazs Rocky Road ice cream, brimming with nuts and marshmallows. The ice cream may have been too sweet. I don’t review ice creams. But the wine was simply too thin.
Final verdict. I still like this wine and I will still buy it again. But it’s hardly in the same league as its cousin.Access the companion wine A Wine Lover's Weekly Review Of $10 Wines - A Sweet Georgian Red
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would
rather just drink fine French or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario
French-language community college. His wine websites include
www.theworldwidewine.com and http://www.theitalianwineconnection.com
Visit his website devoted to Italian travel www.travelitalytravel.com
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